Bako’s food overcooked and overpriced

A restaurant can be as pretty as it wants, but the food needs to back it up. Unfortunately, Capitol Hill's new Chinese restaurant Bako is more about looks than substance.

The layout and design of the space may be hip and functional, but the managers should have spent more time focusing on the food than the ambience.

Bako's $6 to $9 appetizers are less than appetizing.

The $8 shrimp chive potstickers come with five potstickers and soy sauce, even though the menu advertises a citrus dipping sauce. What they don't come with is a box of breath mints — the shrimp is far too overpowering and the taste will linger in your mouth for the remainder of the meal. The potstickers are doused in so much oil that even those who have mastered the art of chopsticks will have them sliding around on their plates.

The $6 won ton soup, one of only two soup selections, was delivered with pools of oil from the won ton meat floating around in the broth. The broth had a zing to it and the greens added texture, but the unappetizing sight of overcooked won tons can turn the stomach just from looking at it.

Bako's menu has $10 to $15 larger portioned dishes as well, including ginger scallion noodles and clams in black bean sauce.

Cocktails at Bako, which are all $9.50, are described on the menu according to the emotional effect they will have on the drinker. The floridita with rum and cocoa lime is accompanied will induce a "riddling" feeling. The pamplemousse with whiskey and grapefruit will induce a "calming" effect.

For those that still dare to try Bako, their "Foursies at Three" happy hour would be the best time to take the chance. From 3 to 5 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday, $2 to $7 dishes can be had that are not offered on the regular dinner menu.

Despite the food, the restaurant is gorgeous. The stainless steel kitchen, the granite countertops and the wood ceiling beams are elegant and charming.

While the drinks might be fun, and the walls fun to look at, in the end you'd be best avoiding Bako's oily, over-seasoned food.

Ashley may be reached at aroe@su-spectator.com